Post

Pashmina is derived from the Persian word Pamina which literally means “made of wool”. Pashmina is an Urdu word with a Parsi origin and is the name given to Changthangi goat’s fleece. Pashmina is rare and desired around the world because it is found 15000 feet above sea level in Ladakh, India. Pashmina has fascinated kings, royals, and people all over the world with its magical allure and traditional elegance. Perhaps, it was for this reason that we chose to demonstrate the exquisiteness and regal demeanour of this centuries-old art to the rest of the world.

Pashmina’s Royal Admirers

Pashmina has had patronage from all over the world for a long time. There was a period when royal patronage was given to this art form. Pashmina was known to kings, queens, royal families, and nobles all over the world. They had quite a collection of shawls and scarves.

Pashmina was discovered in the 16th century, when the birthplace of Pashmina, Kashmir, was under the Mughal rule. And even the mere sight of it swooned the Mughal kings of the time. Later, the aesthetics of this art spread much further, and Napoleon Bonaparte gave a Pashmina shawl to his wife, Josephine. During that time, she is thought to have owned a few hundred shawls. Iranian rulers wore and gave Pashminas as part of their political activities. Hand-embroidered Pashmina shawls and fabric were used to decorate Maharaja Ranjit’s court in India.

Pashmina is also regarded as the king of all fabrics, making it classic and timeless.

Changthang’s Nomadic Land

A glamorous Pashmina shawl’s dramatic elegance and ornamental allure had a humble beginning.

Changthang is the land of the nomads, situated about 14600 metres above sea level east of Leh. The area is undeveloped and unusual. Once you cross Changthang peak, it appears that the city’s noise and grit fade away. Extreme climate, high altitude, and remoteness can be contributing factors. Since these characteristics made Changthang unsuitable for agriculture, local nomads began raising Changthangi goats. These conditions are ideal for goats. These goats produce fine but strong undercoats, which is the same fleece that is used to make Pashmina shawls in Kashmir.

Let us take you on a journey through this incredible art, beginning in Ladakh and continuing through the narrow alleys of Kashmir to luxury stores all over the world.

The Pashmina Journey: A Step-by-Step Guide to Pashmina Production

1. Goat Pashmina

Changthangi goats are strong, active, and well-acclimatized animals. They spend the majority of their time growing up in a free large-range grazing environment. They can only be found in high altitudes in Ladakh, where the temperature drops to around – 25 degrees Celsius and develop a thick, warm undercoat, which is the source of Kashmir Pashmina fur. Changthangi goats have a lower reproductive rate and can only have one child per year. It is, however, extremely expensive due to its high demand.

These goats’ wool is only harvested once a year, typically in June or July. Combing or shearing is the most popular method for harvesting hair. Pashmina production is largely determined by the size of the goats, which can vary from 70 to 500 grammes per goat. The wool is used to make Kashmir’s popular Pashmina Shawls, which are then sold for a high price all over the world. These Kashmiri goats can be found in the Ladakh region of Northern India, China, and Mongolia, among other places.

2. Combing

The wool is picked by hand by combing out the under fleece from the Goat’s Coat (rather than shearing, as is the case with lamb’s wool). Professionals never bother the goat when combing it; instead, they wait until the Pashmina is completely loose and comes off easily in many places. It is not necessary to comb the goat daily. It’s crucial to comb off the fleece at the right time. They wait for the complete shedding of the Pashmina to conserve even the micro-samples and hold zip-lock bags with each goat’s name at the barn.

Until they begin combing, they carefully observe the goat(s) to see if they are combing on their own with whatever is available. Goats can be seen running through the brush and rubbing their bodies against the fence multiple times a day to shed their fleeces. Combing practitioners comb the prime areas first, then move on to the head, neck, chest, and britches, where the fibre is shorter and coarser, to filter the cream. Then they get a grocery paper with the name of the goat’s body area they’ve combed on it, and they keep the fibre within the belonging area.

What are the most important tools and accessories for combing?

Experts need the following equipment to perform proper combing and extract the full amount of fibre.

• a shopping bag made of paper (has to be labelled with the name and date for each goat)
• A brush with natural bristles
• A large pin brush is needed
• A superb Slicker (similar to a hand corner)
• A metal comb with several teeth

What is the procedure for combing?

Pashmina hand embroiderers come from generations of families who have studied, taught, and passed on the craft. These professional artisans have spent over a half-decade painstakingly designing exotic Pashminas for a single shawl. In today’s world, the most refined pieces, with embroidery noticeable on both sides, are rare. The royal families wore these double-sided or “do-rukha” shawls. These were, in reality, the ones that were given as gifts to foreign nobles and rulers.

The foreigners were so taken aback by these magnificent shawls that they were quickly won over. Everyone’s desire was piqued by the exquisite handicraft.

The French empress Josephine adored these beautiful shawls so much that she ordered more to give to her royal court guests.

3. What were the different styles of motifs used on the pashmina shawls?

The Pashmina shawls were woven with a variety of designs and patterns. The following are the most well-known.

• Buti: This is a tiny one-of-a-kind flower style.
• Buta: A multi-floral motif that is much larger than a buti.
• Khat-rast: This shawl’s pattern is striped and runs the length of the shawl. The buti is often incorporated into the stripes.
• Badam/ Ambi/ Kairi: This pattern is known as “Paisley” all over the world. In the majority of the shawls, it has become the dominant motif.
• Lahariya: This zig-zag motif is commonly used to represent water.
• Shikargah: It is a word that means “hunting.” This shawl motif portrays jungle scenes with a large number of animal and human figures.
• Hashia: 4-sided 1 inch border design that encloses the main motifs such as buta, paisley, chinar and so on.
• Neem Daur: 4-sided 2 inches border design that encloses the main motifs such as buta, paisley, chinar and so on.
• Daur Dar: 4-sided 2.5-3 inches border design that encloses the main motifs such as buta, paisley, chinar and so on.
• Kalan Daur: 4-sided 4-5 inches border design that encloses the main motifs such as buta, paisley, chinar and so on.
• Jaal Design: It is an all-over embroidery with the motifs of chinars, paisleys, pattis, etc.

4. What dyes are used to colour pashmina shawls?

Organic dyestuffs were used for a wide variety of colours from the 17th century to the mid-19th century. To create a large range of 64 colours, professional dyers will only need five to six different substances.

For shades of blue, violet, dull red, and yellow, organic dyestuffs included indigo, lac, kermes, logwood, safflower, and saffron. The broad colour palette is thought to have been accomplished by changing the dye’s intensity and mixing it with other dyes.